Three Tips for Your Visit to Manaus (Brazil​)

Slow travel in Manaus, visit Praia da Lua with locals.

We arrived in Manaus with a list of places I wanted to visit, but Providence ruled differently. In the past I might have had a fit. I had made a list, damn it, and we were going to stick to it. We had to visit Manaus properly.

After all, wasn’t that why we were here?

Read More

Meet the Baianas de Acarajé in Salvador da Bahia (Brazil)

Amidst a crowd of typical, T-shirts-and-jeans-wearing Brazilians, a black woman stood out. She wore an intricate, white, lace bodice covered with necklaces above a dark-blue, billowing skirt and a white piece of cloth artistically wrapped around her head. She was deep-frying some sort of snack.

Meet Salvador da Bahia’s famous Baianas de Acarajé.

Read More

Swimming with Dolphins in the Amazon (Brazil)

Swimming with dolphins, Brazil

It was Sunday, late afternoon. The weekend vacationers from Manaus had returned home and peace reigned once more over the small tourist town of Novo Airão. I was the only one to go swimming with dolphins.

What a stroke of luck!

Read More

Hiking the Sugar Loaf Mountain in Rio de Janeiro (Brazil)

Hiking Sugarloaf Mountain and Urca Hill in Brazil

Thick traffic and having to watch my back had made me wary of Rio de Janeiro. But after a leisurely walk up the Sugar Loaf I took in the view and suddenly understood the spell that visitors as well as Cariocas (Rio de Janeiro’s residents) fall under.

And I wondered, what’s there not to fall in love with Rio de Janeiro?

Read More

Eating Starch? – What’s the Secret to Making a Proper Beiju?

Eating starch, a plate with homemade beiju (tapioca) pancakes

Curiosity is lying in wait for every secret.”
~Ralph Waldo Emerson

“Why did I not think of this before? I’ll just buy tapioca and we’ll make beiju,” I concluded.

It was such a simple solution to such a simple problem: staying in a village where I couldn’t find bread but needing something for breakfast.

If only it were so simple…

Read More

Bathing in Luxury at the Hotel Casa Gangotena in Quito

I was looking out over the Mediterranean dotted with a couple of sailing boats. Low rolling hills line the horizon. The image was framed by Corinthian columns covered in flowering vines. I felt as if I was on vacation in Greece, Italy, or Spain.

Did that make sense, with my being 9,350 feet above sea level, in Quito, Ecuador’s capital?

Not really.

Read More

Absorbing the Story of Slavery in Redenção, Brazil

In 1873 Colonel Simião Jurumenha bought a sugarcane farm and built the cachaça factory of Douradinho in Redenção. 10 years later slavery was abolished here – 5 years before the rest of Brazil.

130 years later, I visit the still functioning factory-cum-museum.

Read More

Watching Wild and Captive Condors in Ecuador, at Hacienda Zuleta

It was almost like a dance, seven rambunctious Andean Condors hopping around chunks of mule and calf. On other days the carrion might be alpaca, sheep, or rabbit. Males generally have the first go but Awu is a female that is able to stand up for herself and makes sure she gets the piece she wants to have.

When two condors wanted the same piece they each tore on a side of it as if it were a game of tug-of-war.

Read More